nce in a while my travels take me beyond the norm to an extraordinary dining experience. This ranks at the top of that list. In the Middle Ages shepherds in the Swiss Alps accidentally stumbled on a new way to enjoy Raclette, a semi-hard cheese made from raw cow's milk. After a long day of tending the flocks, they put the cheese on a stone next to the fire. The heat caused it to slowly melt into a delicious and pliable spread. They ate it with bread, pickled onions and potatoes. Later, during the 19th century, this newly discovered roasted cheese spread to other regions of Switzerland and eventually, to France. Today, this same Alpine tradition has been recreated at the Empire Canyon Lodge at Deer Valley in Park City, Utah. The lodge may not be as high as the alps, but it is about 8,000 feet above sea level. Situated at the top of one of Deer Valley's ski lifts, the chalet, in winter months, is surrounded by aspen groves and snow. The restaurant serves upscale cafeteria-style fare during the day where hungry skiers can come for a bite after the leaving the slopes. Nighttime, however, is where the serving stations are reconfigured and the real magic begins. By wildly popular demand, Empire Canyon Lodge has increased its hours of operation from one night a week to three - it will be hardly enough when word gets out about what is going on up there on the mountain. As my wife, Nancy, and I entered, we were seated in front of one of many large windows, allowing us to watch the sunset bathe the snowy slopes in a warm orange glow. The white trunks of the aspens flecked with black offered a nice contrast, but it wouldn't be long before the green of spring changed the look of those trees and the mountainside. We watched as a family took a horse drawn sleigh ride, another little diversion that is a part of the ambiance there. The chalet has high ceilings and four massive flagstone fireplaces at least 20 feet high, each with a roaring wood fire tended by staffers. Their tasks includes melting large pieces of Swiss Raclette or keeping watch over entire legs of lamb, pork or venison, all slowly roasting to perfection above the fire. The wait staff is as attentive and professional. We were offered wine to match each of the dishes we selected. Part of the overall experience is visiting the various fireplaces. My first stop was the Swiss Raclette station. After being handed a warm plate of the just melted cheese, I took it to a serving island where I selected potatoes, homemade baguettes, cured meats, and strawberry chutney to accompany the cheese. These all blended in my mouth with a sweet and savory taste. My next stop was in front of another fireplace where several iron pots were filled with various stews. Veal and wild mushroom, venison sausage and chicken, and roasted root vegetables and a traditional Swiss Rosti (similar to a potato pancake) were all beckoning. I took a little bit of each. Back at my table, I savored every bite and commented to my wife that those shepherds sure knew how to eat! I followed my sense of smell into another room where several large legs of lamb were hanging and slowly turning in front of another fire. The juices were dripping into pots and just the look and smell was enough to make me hungry all over again. I added a side of greens with a Champagne and red onion vinaigrette with some fresh baked ciabatta bread. The lamb was made with fresh herbs, lemon and garlic and was so tender that no knife was necessary. It was among the most flavorful meats I have ever tasted, including the lamb I was served nightly on a recent trip to Jordan in the Middle East. With barely enough room for dessert, I headed to another table where I loaded my plate with strawberries, pineapple, bananas, and pound cake. A server in front of the fourth fireplace asked me if I would like a fondue of chocolate, caramel or white chocolate with a dipping sauce of Grand Mariner. Such decisions! "All three," I exclaimed. The combination of fresh fruits with the warm sweet confections just about did me in and all I could do was sit back, relax and watch another family gliding by the window in a sleigh in the twilight. For more information or reservations Empire Canyon Lodge at Deer Valley in Park City, Utah. Telephone: 435-645-6632 Dinner, without wine, is only $48 for adults and $24 for children, 11 years and under - quite reasonable for a first class fine dining experience. .